A Guide To Casting Accurately

There are several types of casting methods, Overhand, Underhand, Sidearm, Pitching, Flipping, Slingshot and Tossing. However, there are only two that are mainly used in freshwater fishing; the overhand and sidearm methods. Even though every angler has their own way of executing each one, there are main aspects that are the same.
Sort of like a fingerprint, casting is unique to each person. It comes down to what feels comfortable and what works for you. If you ask four different anglers how to cast, you will probably get four different answers. But one aspect that’s consistent is that it’s all in the wrist.

I say it’s in the wrist and the forearm. The upper arm should be held against the side of the body as if holding a news paper in your armpit. Some casts require more use of the upper arm, but for the most part, the upper arm should not be much of a factor when casting.

Always get to know your reel before casting. You will need to know how to release the line correctly before you attempt to cast. Closed faced and some bait-cast and spinning reels have a button that, when pressed, (or pulled on some spinners) releases a locking mechanism on the spool inside the reel. When the button is released, the line moves freely from the reel. When you turn the handle, the line will not move out freely, but will retrieve.

Try to start out with a closed faced reel when first learning to cast. If you need help, ask someone at your local tackle shop or outdoor center to show you how to operate your particular reel. Remember, the only dumb question is one not asked.

Once you’ve mastered your reel, you’re ready to cast. The overhand cast is the most widely used of all casts. It’s the standard when one thinks of casting. It is mostly used for distance casting and can be fairly accurate with some practice. Fly fishing has it’s own specific cast and should only be tried when regular casting has been learned.
To execute the overhand cast, find a clear open area to practice in, make sure there is at least six inches of line between the rod tip and your lure.

If you are using a leader, that could be all you need. Face the target area, a normal stance is really all that is needed. Try to keep your elbow at your side. On closed face reels, press and hold the releasing button and lift the rod straight up and over the shoulder with the forearm using the wrist to point the tip back.

At this point, the rod should be at a forty-five degree angle directly over the shoulder with the tip pointing behind you. If you need to use your upper arm a bit, that’s ok, just try not to put too much upper arm into the cast. Most of the casting motion should be done with the wrist and forearm.

Now, with the wrist and forearm, whip the rod forward releasing the button on the reel just after the tip passes the top of the arch. Follow though with the rod stopping when the rod is at a forty-five degree angle to the front.

Practice at home a few times or more from your porch or preferably a deck, cast into the yard and retrieve. Attach a sinker to the end of your line to simulate a lure. Once you’ve got the hang of it, then you’re ready to try it out for real.

The sidearm method is the same as the overhand, except that you swing the rod out to your side, perpendicular to the ground and a little more upper arm may need to be used.
The underhand cast is a little more advanced however, the mechanics are the same as the others, but in this cast you bring the rod across the body pointing the rod down at a forty-five degree angle and swing the rod in an upward motion.

Pitching and flipping are fairly simple, specialty casts that may involve the use of the entire arm. These cast are designed to accurately place your lure in the water with very little splash. They are meant for close range casting where a standard cast would be too much.

With pitch casting you release a rod’s length of line pinching the line just above the lure with your free hand and hold the button on the reel at the same time. Put enough tension on the line to straighten it out then swing the rod out and up letting go of the line and the releasing button at the same time, “Pitching” the lure at your intended target. With this cast, you have to be careful not to snag yourself on the lure.

The flip cast is a bit more involved however, it’s fairly simple to execute and when mastered can be very handy. Hold the rod up and out like The Statue of Liberty pose and release the line until your lure hits the ground. Bring the rod back down and grasp the line between the reel and the first rod guide with your free hand.

Pull the line through the rod guides and out to the side holding the rod out about waist high, raising the lure off the ground. Holding the line, swing the lure like a pendulum and “Flip” it at your target. You can hold the line while casting or let go when needed. As I always say, “Go with what works.”

You can also use the flip type method for jig and pigging and drop shot type fishing. Just don’t ‘Flip” the lure out, lower the lure into the water with the hand holding the line. Continue to hold the line and pull back and forward making the lure move up and down in the water. This is a very handy method for Crappie and Blue-gill fishing.

The slingshot method is something I came across just playing around and then used it for necessity. I later saw it in a fishing magazine, so I can’t clam it as mine unfortunately. I’m not sure who thought of it first but I think it’s nearly the most accurate cast there is however, it’s not very quiet. Slingshot casting is perfect for getting your lure under docks and overhanging tree limbs.

It is very similar to pitching except when you put tension on the line, use enough to bend the rod tip and then slingshot the lure at you target by letting go and pushing the rod out and releasing the button on the reel. There is a bit of timing involved with this one and can be hazardous if not practiced enough.

Toss casting is basically what is says. Push and release the button on your reel. Take the lure in your free hand and literally toss it at your intended target. Depending on how good your aim is, this can be the most accurate cast of all however, it’s kind of limited on distance.

As I mentioned earlier, fly fishing has a very unique casting method and will take an entire article to explain. The fly fishing method can be use in saltwater fishing also. But for now, practice the overhand and sidearm methods until you’ve mastered them and then, when you’re ready, move on to other methods and as always, good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

A First-Timer's Guide to Shoreline Fishing

A large percentage of anglers out there today can probably say that their first fishing experience was from the shore or dock. I still have a photo of myself at four years old, sitting on the bank with a three foot Zebco in hand and wearing my cowboy hat and boots.
Ah, those were the days.
Fishing from the shore is pretty much the same as fishing from a boat; you just have to think a little backwards. That is, in most cases, you have to cast out into the lake and retrieve towards the shore, versus the other way around. This guide will show different aspects of fishing from the bank, along with techniques that I have found to produce quality, shoreline fishing trips.
The first thing to remember is that fish usually hold tight along the bank and trudging down to the water’s edge, with gear and stuff jangling and making large amounts of racket is the first no-no. I’m not saying you have to belly crawl, but actually sneaking up on the bank is the best approach. A light step and slow quiet movements are optimal at best.
Try to set up shop at least twenty feet from the shore. Generally, in public parks and FWA’s, there are picnic tables nearby and are usually the optimal distance from the bank.
As far as tackle is concerned, less is more. Some shoreline anglers believe they have to bring all their gear and poles and if you’re not gonna venture off to other parts of the lake or river per say, I guess that’s alright. However, most anglers know you have to change spots in order increase your chances of catching more fish.
I don’t mean that you should leave the rest of your gear at home, it’s just that your car isn’t gonna be too far away. You can always bring too much, just leave the extra stuff in the trunk.
I usually take along two of each type of lure I may need for the conditions, one pole; two at the most and sometimes a cooler. The cooler is either for Panfish fishing or a place to put a fish in order to keep from spooking the others. When you catch a fish and just throw it back, that fish is stressed and frightened and thus spooks the other possible catches nearby.
When I venture off into the woods or to a secluded spot, it’s usually a decent hike to where I want to go. I have one small, plastic utility case, (actually it’s a used, plastic, wall hanging fixtures case that is sectioned off into four compartments. It’s the perfect size) a pair of pliers for removing hooks, a towel and a collapsible lunch bag to put everything into. I bring a couple of bags of Berkley Gulp plastic worms and one pole; two if I’m feeling frisky. That is usually all I need.
I put a two inch lipped minnow, a couple of small jigs, a small spinner and some extra hooks, swivels and weights in the plastic case. Everything but the pole fits in the lunch bag, the pole breaks down and I’m tearin’ off through the woods with nothing but the terrain to slow me down. If I need or want other lures that won’t fit in the case, I just put them in the bag and I can usually fit a bottle of water in there as well.
The point is, keep your gear to a minimum and you’ll be extra mobile. You don’t need the entire tackle box to fish from the shore, unless you’re pulling an all-nighter in one spot, then the situation may require everything and the kitchen sink.
Try to make your first cast from about ten feet away from the edge of the water. Look for the right conditions, (overhanging trees, sunken timber, or rocky points and cast parallel to the shoreline. Many shoreline anglers walk right up to the water and cast straight out as far as they can, often missing the fish right in front of them, or just a few feet down the shore.
You might catch a fish by casting out to the depths of your particular body of water however, chances are it’s gonna be a while, especially if you use a crank type lure or bait. In order to catch fish that far from shore you have to go deep and keep your presentation there for some time. As I mentioned earlier, most fish, even the big ones, hold tight to the shore.
Another thing I have mentioned in other articles is that bass like to lurk around transitional lines in the water (mud-lines, weed-lines, shadow-lines and sharp drop offs). A good pair of polarized sunglasses will help to locate theses areas in the water, not to mention, see fish and protect your eyes from flying hooks, weights and lures when trying to dislodge a snag.
I like to find a small cove, one I can cast completely across. Aim for the other bank, under some overhanging tree limbs and retrieve straight across the cove using a creature type bait. Go slow and try to keep your bait near the other bank as long as possible. This type of casting and retrieving may take some practice and chances are, you may get hung up a few times, but the rewards are worth it.
And if you do get hung up, you can usually walk along the shore to the other side and free yourself. So practice this technique as much as possible, it’s definitely worth the hassle of learning it.
Always be courteous to other anglers and the environment when fishing. Have good judgment when it comes to noise levels and never leave your trash behind. Litter and bad conduct can bring unwanted restrictions to your favorite fishing spot. And if it’s not your favorite, it might be someone else’s.
Remember to put on sun-block and bug spray, bring plenty of food and water if you plan on being out a long time and most importantly, tell someone where you are going or bring a buddy along. And as always; good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

A Guide To Windy Weather Fishing

How many times have you heard? “I’ll fish in the middle of summer or the dead of winter, but I hate fishing when it’s windy.” I’m not a big fan of it either however, if you can put up with making sure everything is secure so it won’t blow away, understanding what the wind does to the water and how the fish react to it can be extremely beneficial.
First off, there are a few things to discuss. Always make sure your trolling battery, or batteries, are fully charged. This is always a god idea, no matter what the conditions however, you will probably need all the power you can get while trolling the shores and trying to maintain stationary positions in the wind.
Anything light or lofty, like tackle boxes and fishing nets, should be secured or stowed low if you’re fishing from a boat or dock. Losing your gear or trying to catch a flying bag of plastic worms can get you into some tight spots and might even cause you to lose a fish or worse, take a dive into the drink.
Losing your gear or having to paddle back to the launch is never a fun experience to encounter. Trust me, I’ve been there. By the way, it’s also a good idea to keep at least one paddle in the boat, just in case.
A great new piece of equipment to add to your gear is the drift sock. Specially designed for windy conditions, the drift sock is used to slowly troll or maintain a spot without using a trolling motor or anchor, which decreases battery usage and cuts down on noise created by the troller or the splash of and anchor.
The “sock” is usually made of heavy gauge nylon and attaches to the boat with a rope like an anchor. You just drop the “sock” into the water on the windward side of the boat, as the wind pushes the boat, the sock drags in the water causing the boat to slow considerably and, in some cases, to even stop.
Very handy on those windy days and can be used to drift fish.
One fortunate aspect of fishing during windy conditions is that your favorite fishing spot will probably be less crowded. That is if your favorite spot gets crowded. Another good aspect is that fish can generally be more predictable.
Wind creates waves, which in turn breaks up the surface of the water. This is primary to understanding what the fish are going to do. Wind also cause currents to break up the sediment and food; this causes the bait fish to follow the drifting bands of food and cover located in these slight currents on the top of the water.
And where you find bait fish, you find bass.
The waves and debris also break up the patterns of light shining through the water, which can cause bass to become more active due to optimal feeding conditions. Fish are also less spooked on windy days because of the noise at the surface (chops and splashes) as well as possibly being pre-occupied with searching for prey.
For the most part, fish face into the current and will be more apt to strike prey swimming at them rather than chasing the prey. Casting into the wind and retrieving with the current can produce a number of strikes, especially if you can find multiple locations with the same characteristics.
Remember to note the conditions in which you catch a fish in order to reproduce your actions in other locations. Fish will position themselves and react in the same manner all over the lake. I try to keep a journal. Some anglers bring a small note pad with them to document catches and the conditions in which they fished.
It doesn’t matter if you’re fishing from the shore or from a boat, knowing what to look for on a windy day can produce some cool results. Just remember to cast into the wind and retrieve with the current. Try to position yourself downwind along the shore and pull your lure along those lines of transition, most often, bass will be hiding in ambush and will strike hard.
Lures that create a vibration and flash are optimal for windy days as well as muddy conditions. Wind will also cause mud lines to appear at the shoreline, structured areas or along wind induced currents. Big bass love transitional lines in the water. (Shadow lines, Mud lines, Weed lines and Sharp drop offs) Get two or three of these and a windy day together and were talkin’ results.
As far as bait is concerned, spinner-baits or rattle-type baits work the best, due to the noise and vibration they produce, especially if the water is muddy. Bright, noisy, vibrating baits usually work the best in muddy water. I say usually because you never know exactly what the fish are going to do. However, fish will generally act the same under certain conditions.
In muddy water, dark color crank baits and jigs work very well. If you use a spinner, go with chartreuse or white. There are now glow in the dark blades available on the market today. For obvious reasons, neon or glow in the dark blades and lures will produce desired effects in muddy water.
Top water, splashing baits do quite well also. I like to use two-inch, lipped minnows and poppers to bring the big ones to the surface. The splashing and popping creates the noises associated with dying or jumping bait fish. Ripping, top-water buzz-baits can be very handy on noisy, windy days also. I haven’t seen many anglers catch fish with buzz-baits as much as other lures, but that’s because I haven’t seen many buzz-baits used.
I prefer not to use them myself, for personal reasons. But try them out, who knows, you might have great results with them.
Line diameter should also be considered depending on the style of casting you use. You might not need to change if you flip or pitch cast or if you use a heavier lure however, if you use an overhand cast or you go with lighter crank baits, you might consider switching to a smaller diameter line to cut down on the amount of drag, which will shorten your casting distance.
Another factor to take into consideration is that the wind can often cause the water temperature to change. Currents caused by the wind will often bring the cooler water up from below, which in turn, changes the temperature at the surface. Depending on the season, this can cause fish to react differently.
One last tip is to try to ignore the conditions and just fish. If you become familiar with the way fish respond to certain conditions, the rest comes naturally. As I always say, find what works for you and go with that. So remember to secure your gear on windy days or leave it behind and until next time, good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Staying Focused When Unable To Go Fishing

Unless you have a tournament you just can’t miss, or you’ve found a way to enclose your bass boat with one-bys and visquene, I suggest (and this may sound funny) do some studying. Watch some fishing shows. I would suggest a few good ones, however chances are you already know the ones I’m thinking of. Plus, I don’t want to offend anyone by not mentioning their favorite show here. (or certain T.V. personalities either) Check your local listings for dates and times.
All of ‘em are great ways of gettin’ your fishin’ fix on. And they all have great tips and tricks. Each one usually covers something different than the others. However, someone needs to cover the Midwest (um, say, Indiana) rather than Texas and Florida all of the time. For some reason no-one seems to think that the Midwest is worth taking the time to discover. Bygones.
Obviously, getting your tackle and gear ready for the next trip is another way of staying focused. However, there are only so many times you can re-string reels, re-arrange lures and wipe down the boat. Check the library or your local tackle store (if it’s open) for some literature on some fishing topic or technique you may not know much about.
Not to insult anybody’s intelligence here, I’m just sayin’ everybody could use some culture now and then. Look for an area fishing map/guide book. These are undoubtedly one of the greatest additions to any anglers’ arsenal. Filled with contour fishing maps, local fishing information, access and accommodations, most offer GPS grids on the maps now. If you’re into that sort of thing.
As far as getting out and this may also be obvious, keep your eye open for the next boat and tackle show in your area. “Its fun for the whole family”, yeah maybe you dad and the boy. (or tom-boy) Though there are some women that are into fishing as much as men most could care less, so try to find one that’s going on the same time as the home and garden show.
Just a suggestion for you family guys. (or gals)
Boat and tackle shows are great places to “bone-up” on the latest info on just about every aspect of fishing you can think of. You can get approved for a new boat, find out how to use a certain lure or piece of tackle successfully and get the kids (and even the spouse) out of the house all in one day.
These shows usually offer workshops on new methods and techniques also. They generally have a kids area where the young ’uns can learn a thing or three about the great outdoors, oh yeah and fishing too. Venders get to show of there wares and everyone gets to stretch their legs a bit. Fun, Fun, Fun!!! Plus, you get to drool on some awesome boats at the same time.
You might try your favorite or not so favorite big box outdoor store. Sometimes they hold angling shows. Generally these can be better because they’re not as crowded and you can get more of a one-on-one feel for the product or technique you might have a question about.
Practicing isn’t out of the question either if your side arm or pitching method lacks a bit. I like to stand in the living room and cast down the hall, or out on the deck (which is like standing on a dock) and casting out into the yard, which is particularly good for distance. I practice with the type of lures that I usually use out on the lake, except without a hook or hooks.
The hall is especially great for honing your accuracy. Although, take care for hitting the walls, that may get you put on the couch. However, that could get you more time to practice time. Just kiddin’.
So instead of trying to paint a mural of your favorite fishing spot on the living room wall, (Huh, that’s not a bad idea) look for some ways to tighten up your skills while you’re locked up so to speak. And as always, happy thoughts and good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, IN. with his dogs Puranah and Princess and his cat Sylvester.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Shoreline/Dock Fishing vs. From the Boat

To say that fishing from the shore is like going to the beach and not swimming, is an understatement. However, some of my earliest and most memorable fishing experiences involve being on the bank.

Obviously, fishing from a boat is a better and more preferred method, just for the simple fact that you can cast to the bank and not from it. However, if you can find the perfect spot, you can still “walk” away with an enjoyable experience. Part of that, comes from knowing were and sometimes how to cast.

Telling you how to cast can get you started, but you must get past the fear and feeling of loss that comes with losing a lure or a rig. It happens, get over it and cast. If you think you’re spending too much on tackle, then I would suggest finding someone to show you a few casting tips and tricks. Get out and do it, or limit yourself to just reading about fishing.

I understand the fear of losing that 4, 5, 6 dollar and up lure or the rig you spent an hour rigging up, that is why I suggest finding someone who can show you, in person, a few things to get you over that fear of losing a 15 dollar lure. Just remember, sometimes you are going to loose a lure, no matter how hard you try not to. And yes, there are some lures that cost that much and more.

I will try to expand on casting in another article. Please allow me to return to the task at hand.

Locating a dock that’s in a relatively small cove is like heaven, especially if it’s at the end of that cove. The dock is a structure, fish are drawn to structures. It gives them a reference point, plus cover and shelter. And fish generally stay in one cove, moving in patterns around that cove.
The key to catching a nice sized bass or even a decent sized bluegill or crappie is being able to cast to the bank, not from it. Casting and retrieving parallel to the bank, on the outskirts of a weed-bed is another crucial factor.

Don’t get me wrong, casting straight out into the water from the bank works also, just not as well. If you’re using a hook and bobber, this can be the preferred method. Large-mouth bass have been known to take a worm on a hook, although rarely.
Getting your lure under those overhanging tree limbs is the trick, which can be a hurdle in itself. I mentioned, in an earlier article, that you can skip some lures across the water like a stone. However, the soft plastic lures usually skip better than the hard plastic ones.

The trick is using a lure that is smooth and flat enough to contact the water properly for skipping. Just like when you were a kid looking for rocks to skip, finding a lure that skips has the same principles involved.

I have found that the Gulp series, watermelon-green frog by the brand Berkley is the best. I don’t think the color makes a difference in skipping however, as far as catching a good sized lunker, color makes a big difference. This particular soft-plastic frog skips extremely well. I’m talkin’ three or four skips, sometimes a full ten feet or more.

Finding a small cove on foot is much the same as finding a dock on a small cove. Being able to cast to the other bank is what gets me to stop and throw my favorite lure. (Or what happens to be on my line at the time)

In this situation, I would have a minnow type lure; hard plastic lipped or soft plastic weed-less, or a frog or “creature” rig. When I say “creature”, I’m talking about lizards, skirted tubes and crawfish or crayfish depending on where you’re from.

Your goal is to cast or skip the lure across the water, under the tree limbs to the bank, or as close to the bank as you can get. Then reel in slow and steady, sometimes stopping to let the lure drop to the bottom a few feet from the shore, this can produce amazing results.

Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, the lure is only going to skip one or two times and a very short distance at that. This is where casting accuracy comes into play. One quick tip, try a side-arm cast to get the trajectory low and flat. But enough about trajectory, this isn’t rocket science, or is it?

When I approach a lake on foot, I also try to “sneak up” on the lake. I know it sounds funny however, the less noise you make approaching the bank, the better your chance of not scaring away a nice big fish. The older and bigger fish are older and bigger for a reason.

Fish can see you on the bank. The ones that have been caught and released will flee if they see you coming with your pole and tackle box, crashing through the brush and making the noises associated with being caught. Have fun, but try not to make a party out of it. Other anglers may thank you for it also.

And as always, keep happy thoughts and good fishing to you.

Chris lives in Nashville, IN. with his dog, Piranah. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Tips for Fishing an Unfamiliar Lake

When approaching a new lake, it’s always a good idea to have a plan. Maps and lake reports are handy, but they aren’t always accurate and may not be the only thing you need. Sometimes you need that keen eye of an experienced angler to see the opportunities. Or just learn what that keen-eyed angler is looking for and duplicate.
Sometimes you may get lucky and find someone on the docks willing to give up some secrets. Older anglers are usually more than happy to pass on some of their tips, favorite tricks and spots.

I always use a system of gathered information. Here are a few tips to help your overall success on a new lake.

• As I have said before, keep it simple. The most basic fishing techniques work the same on most all lakes. They have done so in the past for a reason. If it works on one lake, chances are it will on others.

• Structure! Structure! Structure! Look for docks, standing timer, weeds and lily pads. Anything that creates shelter and camouflage for the fish is a good spot. Bass, especially largemouth are ambush hunters.

• Confidence can be a great fishing tool to have in your tackle box also. If you go out to the lake with the mindset that you’re not going to catch a fish, your chances of catching a fish are going diminish greatly. Throw that lure like you’re a pro on the biggest tour of your life and before you know it, your catching fish like a pro.

• The shallows near a drop off or channel are always a good place to catch fish. The Bass species, which include the Sunfish and Bluegill, like to have that abrupt transition.
• If you’re trying to catch a specific species find out what kind of habitat they require and look for it on the lake.

• The time of year has a lot to do with how the fish will bite. Two things make a major impact on what the fish are doing and how they will react: cold water and warm water. Cold water; slow your roll, Warm water; speed it up a bit.

• Don’t just throw your favorite lure because you like how fish strike it, or it happens to be your favorite color. Check the condition of the water. Is it clear or muddy? Is it cold or warm? Is the level rising or falling? Believe me, water conditions matter.
• As always, the local tackle shop is a great place for information. However, sometimes it’s hard to get good advice right before a big tournament. The person running the shop may fall into a rut and answer everybody the same, “Well so-and-so creek can be good this time of the year.” or “The fish have really been biting on this (Insert product here), which is on sale today.” Knowing when to ask the local tackle shop also comes with experience.

Water clarity is something else that will be a factor in going to a new lake. If you cannot see what is under the surface, it’s pretty hard to determine what to throw. If the water is muddy, throw out a nice dark color (I’m not a favorite of black or blue however, other are). Bladed Spinners are always a good way to “feel-out” the water. Something weed-less or snag-free well works in “testing out the waters” also.

My fishing buddy likes to go to a different lake each time we go fishing, which can be a bit difficult when you’re strapped for time or cash. However, experience comes from doing and the more lakes and ponds you can throw your lures into, the better.
Well I do hope I have helped someone and just remember, on those rainy or bad days, do some research, ‘cause like the old saying goes, “Knowledge is Power”.
And as always, keep happy thoughts and good fishin’ to you.

Chris Curley lives in Nashville, IN. with his dog Piranah. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Time to Go Fishing

You can go out, buy the most expensive boat, the most expensive fish finder, and the latest top of the line tackle, but you are never going to be able to tell when the fish are biting. If someone could come out with an electronic device that does that, they would be overnight millionaires.

Unfortunately that hasn’t happened, yet. So for now, we have to rely on our own experiences. Some say that early morning is when the fish are active and some say that late afternoon/evening is the best time. While both early morning and late afternoon are great times to find active fish, it is possible to find fish biting throughout the day.

Finding where the fish are hiding is one of the skills that are mastered by doing. Knowing where the fish are supposed to be is a good start, but you have to actually find these places and experience the motions that it takes to get a nice big lunker to come out of hiding just to strike your lure.

Even if they are not actually eating and just protecting there nest, chances are if you can get the fish to bite your lure, you can hook it. Yes sometimes in the spring when the fish are nesting, they will put the “Intruder” in their mouth and move it to another location and then spit it out. Because they’re not really hungry, they’re just protecting the nest. This is when using a bright, colorful lure can be an advantage.

If you can see the fish pick up the bait, then you know when to set the hook. Water clarity has a lot to do with whether you will be able to see your lure. However, if the water is muddy and you feel a slight pressure on your line, set the hook!

During early morning and late afternoon/evening, light can be a scarce commodity on the water. Knowing how to use low light conditions can play a major role in catching that lunker laying in wait.

The first and last hours of sunlight are excellent low light periods. I say excellent because these are the perfect conditions for bass in general. Lighting usually doesn’t affect these periods, because bass see relatively the same either way.

Bass are naturally stealthy creatures. The low light periods of the day are theirs. Baitfish and other prey begin to loose they’re eyesight while they transition to night vision. This makes for easy pickin’s for the bass. Some big largemouth bass actually herd baitfish like Sheep. And then it’s, “Make way to the buffet!”

Speaking of weather conditions, cloud cover, the rising or falling of the barometer and rain play a big part in fish activity. However, just like weather, it doesn’t matter what time of day it is, these particular conditions are a large factor as well.

Early winter can be a difficult time to catch a bass however, it can be done (Yes, you can find anglers out on the lake during the winter also) Basically your top producers in the spring will work during winter.

However, there are times when you have to run the gamut and just find what works at that particular moment. The spinner, the jig and pig, the floating lipped lure, (Poppers and Top-water Rapalas) worms and rattle traps, everything but the kitchen sink. Just remember to slow your roll and know you’re simply not going to catch as many fish as in the spring-time.

I know I’ve covered sprig fishing in another article, so I’ll keep it short. Look for spawning beds and cover. Drag the soft creature baits through the spawning beds and pop those floaters near transition areas. (Shallow/Deep, Sun/No-sun)

Fish, especially big largemouth bass become reclusive and conservative in the summer. This means that you’re going to have to work pretty hard to get a good sized bass to take your lure. Don’t worry this it the time of year when you can catch a larger variety of fish. (Bluegill and crappie to be specific)

During the fall season bass tend behave like its spring. Storing up and looking for that easy meal. Anything that looks like its dying is a pretty good bet.

As you may have read before, a fishing buddy and I were out fishing a private pond and we caught largemouth and bluegill literally left and right, in the middle of a bright, sunny day. So to me, it truly doesn’t matter what time it is, it’s always a good time to go fishing.

Remember, keep happy thoughts and good fishin’ to you.

Chris Curley lives in Nashville, IN. with his dog Piranah. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Proper Fish Handling

In the past when your local lake would hold a weekend tournament, Monday and Tuesday would find more dead fish than normal floating along the shoreline. Through conservationist efforts and anglers who are conscious about the ecosystem, there have been a lot less dead fish at the end of a tournament these days.

That is due to the updated catch and release methods implemented by anglers and tournament holders whom make it part of the rules to have live fish for weigh-in. I remember my Uncle using a stringer when I was a kid.

Unless you plan on keeping the fish you catch, stringers are definitely not recommended for catch and release. And most states have regulations on how many and what size fish you can keep, so check with your local Fish and Wildlife agency for more info on creel limits.

With the arrival of modern bass boat builders and live-well chemicals, it is much easier for the average angler to maintain the condition of their bass until it’s time to release them.

One non-ecological benefit of catch and release is that when you catch a fish, it becomes stressed out from the fight it put up and then it gets panicked when you put it back in the water, which in turn scares the other fish. They either run or become very inactive. So if you want to catch more fish in a particular area, you put the fish in your live-well until it’s time to move on. That’s if you’re not competing in a tournament at the time.

Hint: catch and release is another reason why tournament anglers do so well.
Here in America it is our choice to catch and release. In Europe the pollution has destroyed some natural waters and catch and release is expected among sport anglers.
The emphasis among bass anglers today is on quality fishing. We can’t take from a resource and not give something back. Catch and release is the perfect opportunity to conserve our resources so our children have fish to catch when they get older. You can’t be forced to put a fish back when you have legally caught it within your state’s local creel laws. That choice is up to you.

Here are a few tips for catch and release:

* Remember to have your needle nose pliers ready to remove a stubborn hook. If you try to yank and twist it, you might do more damage to the fish. Remember, there is a bard on the sharp end of the hook. This type of situation requires a calm mind and some experience to successfully remove the hook.

* If you have to grab the fish with your hands, always wet them first. Dry skin will remove the protective slime coating on the fish, this can cause the unprotected areas to become susceptible to algae and fungal growth which can cause disease and eventually kill the fish. (Delayed Mortality)

* Try not to use a fishing-net unless it’s the plastic coated kind. Once again, the dry netting can remove the fish’s protective coating.

* Don’t lay the fish on the dock, the deck of your boat or the ground next to the shoreline. Again, the removal of the fish’s protective coating causes long-term effects.

* If the fish swallows the hook, don’t try to remove it. Just cut the line as close as you can to the hook and put the fish in the water. The fish will usually expel the hook on its own, once it’s back in the water.

* The proper use of a live-well is the best method for keeping fish alive until its time to release them. A little research at your local bait and tackle shop will help with choosing the right chemicals and how much to use in your live-well.

* Try to keep the water temperature of your live-well within five degrees of the water temperature of the lake. Five to eight degrees can be fatal. The use of non-chlorinated ice is recommended in small doses.

* And remember to wet the measuring board before putting the fish on it. It’s all about that protective coating.

With a little research you can find out more about proper catch and release methods used to conserve fish in our local bodies of water. Anglers that choose to ignore the use of proper catch and release methods, make all anglers look bad. The general public doesn’t like to see dead fish clogging up the spillways.

With the focus on delayed mortality heating up, the emphasis is on catch and release fishing. Some say that catch and release fishing is still killing fish because many anglers don’t know or don’t use proper handling methods.

Delayed mortality is something that happens to a few fish after they’re caught. Some fish simply don’t survive the shock. But a larger amount have a better chance of survival if anglers are more aware of they’re actions.

The general public begins to get less than favorable opinions about tournaments and weekend fishermen when the media receives negative information about “delayed mortality” from conservationists out to stop tournaments.

This without giving anglers a chance to prove them-selves capable of executing proper catch and release methods is underhanded and unfair to the anglers who do.
As long as there are anglers willing to go a little further in their efforts, there will always be more fish to catch.

As always, keep happy thoughts and good fishing to you.

Chris Curley lives in Nashville, IN. with his dog Piranah. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

To Slip, Or Not To Slip

I know one of the first times I went fishing, my dad handed me a 12 foot cane pole with a weighted bobber (one of those red and white, straight wooden types with a lead weight attached to the top) and a night-crawler. I can still remember catching my first good size blue gill on that rig.

And I still have the picture to prove it.

Today, there are so many types of floats available, with at least three different ways to use each one. To keep from boring anyone, (hopefully) I will explain just a few of the best methods I know of.

Of course, the night-crawler is the oldest, most cost effective and often the best fish producing method known to anglers of all ages and experience. And how the worm is attached to the hook is one of the oldest arguments out there today.

Some say you have to ball the worm up while you thread it onto the hook. Some say you should wrap the worm around the hook while you bait it. Others like to hook their worm straight. Some anglers use minnows instead, which can also cause baiting arguments. (Through the lips, the dorsal or the tail)
Go figure.
I feel that it’s up to the angler to find out witch method works the best for their location or preference. Like I always say, “Go with what works.”

The night-crawler method is usually used with a stationary or “fixed” bobber. This is where the bobber is fixed to the line so it will not slide along the line. However, it’s not necessarily the only way to use a hook and bobber. In some situations, the “slip” bobber can be also used with a night-crawler on your hook.

It all depends on your situation at the time or how you feel.

With the slip bobber method, you can yo-yo your bait up and down, sometimes directly above your target area. Say in and out of weed-bed pockets or brush piles.

Which brings me to the next method, using a jig or rig with a bobber. This can be very useful in targeting those fish that want to stay at certain depths because of water temperature. Or it can be used to get a stubborn fish, out of hiding, that just will not take that live bait.

To use a jig or soft-bait rig with a bobber, you just tie on your choice of either and set up the bobber just like you would with a night-crawler or a minnow. There really is no difference except that. How you use this set up is a bit different though. Instead of just casting and waiting for your bobber to disappear, you work the lure the way you would without a float, except you use the float to keep the lure at a certain depth (fixed) or to jig the lure up and down (slip) in and out of weed-bed pockets.

Traditional methods of “fixing” a bobber to a line can be very simple or very involved. It depends on how you want the bobber to work or how much effort you want to put into it. It also depends on the type of bobber.

Some types require a bead or bobber stop of some kind to stop it at a certain position. These are called “slip” bobbers. They are designed to slide or “slip” along the line so that you can change the depth of your lure and sometimes there’s no need for a leader with this type.


The other and most widely used is the “fixed” bobber. This type is easier to incorporate. Generally all you have to do is attach the float to your line in the desired spot and be done with it. The bobber “holds” the line with either a spring or spring loaded wire hook and does not move. Then all you do is attach your preferred lure or bait and cast. When using a night-crawler, a “split shot” weight is attached just above the hook to give the bobber stability.

There are other methods of “fixing” a bobber to your line as well. With the round type, you can tie the line directly to the wire hook manufactured into the float and then tie a leader to the same hook. You can also attach a three way swivel to the float hook. This method keeps your line from getting twisted and can act as a counterbalance with weighted floats. You then tie your line to one eye and a leader to the other.
The purpose of using a weighted bobber is to cause the bobber to tip over at the slightest bite. This works really well when fishing for Crappie or Small-mouth bass since these two species of fish have a tendency to have a delicate bite, which can be hard to spot.

As I mentioned before, you can use a bobber with jigs or soft-bait rigs. Usually, fixed bobbers are used with jig-head lures and slip bobbers are used with soft-bait rigs. However, this is not etched in stone. By all means, experiment and “use what works” for you.

The fixed bobber method keeps your lure at a desired depth when fish won’t change to strike. This is a great method if you want to keep a jig-head off the bottom while you “swim” the lure slowly, which you cannot do without a bobber. The jig sinks to fast to be slow-rolled and drags across the bottom. In some cases, this is what you want and is basically what a jig-head lure is supposed to do. But if you want to “swim” your jig-head near the bottom, the fixed bobber is what you want.

The fixed method also allows your lure to “hover” above a weed bed where fish may be hiding to attack from below. This is where the weighted bobber comes into play. When a fish takes the lure and continues to swim upward, the bobber tilts to one side, indicating a bite. Cast this set-up past the weed bed and reel it in stopping about every 18 inches or so until you clear the bed or catch a fish.

If you want to be able to hop the lure straight up and down, the slip bobber is the way to go.

The slip bobber style allows you to raise and lower the lure, in and out of tight spots, which gives your creature bait or worm a more lifelike appearance. All this can be done from a discrete distance. Just cast and let the lure drop to the bottom, then reel in slowly or lift the rod tip until the bobber moves to where you want and let the lure drop again.

The strike will usually come on the downfall, especially if you’re dropping it into a spawning bed a big bass is protecting. The slip method also causes less hang-ups in most cases. The trick is to have a light touch, which will lift the lure almost straight up and out of trouble.

This method can be very useful around sunken trees or stumps, considering a bare root system can hold a number of fish. Here is where hopping the lure short distances is needed.

Both of these styles can be used on most all species of fish however, they are especially useful for drawing hidden bass and crappie out of cover. You never know this method might just win a tournament or gain you some nice bragging rights. Give it a try and as always, good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

5 Simple Techniques To Help You Catch More Fish

5 Simple Techniques To Help You Catch More Fish On Your Next Fishing Trip

In my estimation, many anglers overlook some very simple things that affect their fish catching ability.  Like many things in life, it's often the most obvious things that get overlooked, and in most cases these obvious things have a very big impact on our lives, and for the purposes of this article, our fishing.  These 5 techniques are going to be focused on the river or stream angler who spends much oh their time wading in the water, trying to catch fish.  So if you're a Largemouth Bass angler who fishes from a $20,000 bass boat, these tips probably won't mean much to you.  In any case, here are the tips and you can do with them what you will:

1)  Size Matters - The size of your line matters.  In river and stream situations fish are usually much more wary than in a muddy lake with a lot of boat traffic.  In most cases the water is very clear as well.  This means that the fish are much more likely to see your line.  I personally use four pound test, which is all but invisible to the fish.  I've had the direct experience of using six pound test and getting no bites.  Then switching to four pound test and catching fish one after another.

2)  Use Soft Baits – Soft baits, such as a Curl Tail twister, is a great technique to catch more fish.  These baits can be thrown in a variety of fishing situations, from river fishing to wade fishing on the flats.  When a heavy jig head is added these soft baits are also excellent for deep water jigging in both fresh and salt water.  Soft baits (such as the Slam line of soft baits) that have been manufactured with fish attracting scents are also a great idea.

3)  Avoid Loud Noises - I know, as anglers we are all aware of the "be quiet" rule while fishing, but it's even more pronounced on river and stream situations.  This is especially true on rivers and streams that don't receive much fishing pressure.  The biggest thing to avoid as far as noise goes on rivers and streams are rocks banging together underwater.  Remember this while wading from here to there.

4)  Present Bait Naturally - You want to present your bait as naturally as possible.  You want your bait to look like it would without hooks in it.  The best way I know to accomplish this is by using a set of pre-tied gang hooks.  The bottom line is for your bait to look as natural as possible.

5)  Clean Your Hands - Fish have a very sensitive sense of smell and can smell your scent on your bait.  This is a big reason people use "attractors" on their baits.  I don't think these things attract fish as much as they cover the scent of humans!  Using a hand sanitizer is a good idea or just grabbing a handful of grass and rubbing it in your hands has always worked well for me.

Start employing any or all of these five techniques and you will start catching more fish; it's as simple as that. Catching fish doesn't have to be difficult, especially if we're reminded of the basics from time to time. Remember what Steven Wright said, "There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot."