How to Catch Spotted Sea Trout

How to Catch Spotted Sea Trout

To me, fishing for trout is kind of easy. I have been fishing for them with my dad and brother since I was very young. It's not the fish that I would normally fish for, but when nothing else is biting I have no trouble turning my attention to them. Also it's a great fish for people who are just learning to fish, because if you know how to fish for them, you will catch them. Their first fish may not be a big gator trout, and you may not catch so many that your boat sinks, but you will catch some.
Here are a few pointers for catching Spotted Sea Trout:
Environment
Sea trout tend to stay around the flats areas; grass beds are a favorite for them; they can also be found in channels, where they travel looking for baitfish coming off the flats. You will tend to find trout in the flats more in the spring and summer and in deeper water in the fall and winter as water temperatures change.
Research the area that you will be going to fish. Learn where the grass flats and oyster beds are. You will also need to know where the channels are, and I don't mean just the ones with markers! There are small channels and holes in the flats where trout like to hang out at, waiting for their next meal. Trout are also found in back waters in small bays and around mangroves. As with many fish species, don't get in the habit of looking in only one place for them.
A good thing to remember is that if you see bait, like mullet, green backs and other baitfish, there is a good chance there may be some trout there, along with some other very fun things to catch!
Something to note as well is that if you can see the fish, he can see you. So try to wear clothing that does not look like a neon sign. Colors like light blue and other earth colors work well.
Live Bait
Live bait such as shrimp, greenbacks, or pinfish work well. Try using a popper cork with them, as this will help in attracting the fish when you give little pops with the cork. If the area that you are fishing allows for it, try to give yourself a 2-foot leader between the popper cork and the bait. This helps to keep from spooking the fish. Adjust this with water depth. Also try free lining a shrimp or pinfish, which works well in a light current. Cast up current and let your bait drift back to you, keeping the slack out of the line.
Often I will drift across flats throwing a top water plug, looking for signs of trout like a shrimp or baitfish jumping on top of the water. I don't mean a school of bait breaking the water - just one or two; these are little hints that a trout could be feeding. However, if you do see a school of baitfish breaking and you don't go to check it out, then its time to put the boat back on the trailer and go home!
Lures/Plugs
I personally love to use lures, so I use a variety of things when I go out fishing. One of the first lures I got hooked on as a kid is the Love's lure. These lures work great on trout; work them along the bottom. Make long casts and retrieve by pulling your pole a few feet and then reel in the slack line and repeat. This gives the effect of your bait bouncing off the bottom like a live shrimp would. Try all the colors; you will find that different colors can give more hits and even bigger fish. D.O.A shrimp also work very well. I use them in the same manner as the Love's lures. I tend to catch the bigger trout using D.O.A shrimp, but I catch a larger amount of trout using Love's lures, so it's your preference.
Keep in mind that different times of year and different types of bottom will make the real shrimp be different colors; also shrimp coming out of freshwater rivers into saltwater tend to be lighter colored or even white. Do a little research on the waters that you're going to fish. It's easiest to just ask a local fisherman or bait shop.
Drifting the flats with top water plugs is by far my favorite way to fish for trout. This is mainly because of the hit; I love to see a fish come to the top and smash a plug. It gets your blood working really fast! Cast everywhere when using top water plug because you never know where they may be hiding. You can cover a lot of ground in a short time this way. When you do catch a fish, try to remember where the hit was; very often you will find that there are more fish still lying there. My preference of top water lures is the Super Spook and Super Spook Jr. I like these lures because their larger size helps me to catch larger trout.
Small trout eat crustaceans, shrimp, crabs and so on. Medium size trout like shrimp and small fish like small pinfish, but large trout feed almost exclusively on fish. Small mullet, large pinfish, and about anything they can get in their mouth. So it goes without saying that you should use lures that match what they would naturally be eating. If the water is deep enough, you should even try some suspended lures.
Don't forget that these big trout (also called gator trout) did not get that large by being stupid! These are smart fish, and that's why they have lived this long. So a good thing to remember is to try to be quiet and make really long casts; the further the cast the better the odds are that they will not associate the lure/bait with you.
The main thing is to go out and try new things and if you're not sure, ask someone. If you're new to the area, try a guide. Most of these guys grew up on the waters where you are fishing and have no problem with showing you how to catch fish there. Just remember to tip them. These guys work their butts off so people can have a great fishing experience.

Randy Laukshtein is an avid Snook fisherman and co-creator of the Florida Fresh & Saltwater Fishing site. Check it out at: http://www.FLFreshAndSaltwaterFishing.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randy_Laukshtein

How to Catch Spotted Sea Trout

Wade Fishing For Beginners

Wade fishing can be a great way to catch fish at a very small cost, but there are things you better know if you never have tried it before. If you ask other fishermen about wade fishing, I am sure that you will hear all kinds of stories regarding why many of them will never try it. So, before we get into the things that can happen, let's get into what you should have before you go wade fishing.
Fishing Equipment
There are a few pieces of equipment that you need to ensure a good, and safe, wade fishing experience. First, you should have a good fishing rod, anywhere from six foot to seven and a half foot, with medium to heavy action. Next, you'll need good saltwater reel. Why a saltwater reel? It's going to get wet...Well, more like it's going to spend some time underwater. What I like to do is to pack my reel with good reel grease. This helps to keep the saltwater out, and will make the reel last a lot longer. I do not recommend using any high dollar reels for this style of fishing, unless you just like to spend money. Also, when you're done fishing, instead of rinsing it off with fresh water, steal some lemon Pledge from the house and spray it on the rod and reel. Something in this stuff counteracts the saltwater. Just wipe it off when it dries, and put it away.
Bait vs. Lures
Do your homework before you go out. In other words, think about what species of fish you are going after and what their natural prey is. Shrimp is always a great all-around bait or if you have a cast net, whatever bait you find/catch around the area you will be fishing is definitely part of the natural diet of the fish in the area.
Don't be afraid to try lures. Topwater plugs like the Heddon Super Spook works well in the flats. Another good one is the Strike King Z TOO, which is a weedless lure. Flip out these lures while you're wading out to the spot you want to fish.
As for your bait, you're not going to want to drag a cast net around while you fish. Try to get the bait while you're still close to shore. Use a good bait bucket that will give your bait plenty of water change to help to keep them alive. Keep in mind that you don't want to overfill the bait bucket because this will cause a lot, if not all, of your bait to die. Give them some breathing room. Use a good strong fish stringer to tie your bait bucket to; most of these are plenty long enough for your fish and the bait bucket. If you can, try to stay away from aerators. These make noise and you don't want to spook away the fish as you are approaching them. Also get a fishnet or lip grip for your fish; this will make handling your fish easier and safer for you and the fish.
Let's talk about wearing waders when you fish. There are a few things that you need to be aware of before using them: First, if you go too deep, they will fill up with water. Second, they will try to drag you down if you go in over your head. This can make a great day go really bad, very fast. I am not saying not to use them, but just be aware at all times of where you are about to step because there are some deep holes out there. I am unsure, but I think they now offer waders with flotation in them for safety. If so, I would strongly recommend them. Or another option is to just wear a ski belt or some other kind of waist flotation device.
As for myself, I don't mind getting wet, so I wear an old pair of tennis shoes. You should always have something on your feet - there are plenty of things to hurt yourself on including broken shells, crabs, and don't forget stingrays! Try to do the stingray shuffle when walking across sandbars, so that they will hear you coming and move before you get to them. If you don't know what the stingray shuffle is, it is scuffing your feet on the bottom while you are walking. On a side note, stingrays are not out there to hurt you; their barb is their only defense and you would want to defend yourself if someone stepped on you too! Please show them respect and scuff your feet as you go, and you should have no problem with them.
Where to wade fish
Before you ever go wade fishing, you need to know where you're going to go. This may sound simple, but if you don't do some research, it could mean your life. Please don't take this lightly, as people die wade fishing every year. Always check out the area very well before fishing. During the low tide, check out the deep holes and the shallow areas. Track the best area to walk to get out to the channel or hole that you want to fish. Remember these areas because the tide will come back in, and many seasoned wade fisherman have waited too long and found themselves in a bad place. Knowing where the shallower water is could mean the difference of still being able to walk in or having a long, dangerous swim. I grew up wade fishing around Tampa Bay and around the Skyway Bridge. In these areas you can find sandbars at low tide that go out for a mile. They are great fishing spots, but also can be very dangerous. There is not only the concerns of getting stuck out there when the tide comes back in, but there is a strong current that always seems to be going the opposite direction than the way that you want to go. So, again, I cannot stress this enough - know where you're going ahead of time. Find out what time the tides are changing. Have a watch with you to check the time. Let some one know where you are going and what time you should be back. A good suggestion is to always have a friend with you. If they can hold their breath, you can ride on their shoulders while they walk you back into shore! Seriously though, fishing with a buddy is more fun and a lot safer.
Clothing
You may think that clothing does not matter when going out fishing, but you'd be wrong. First off, wear clothing that will protect you from the sun. You know that sunburn you get when you go out in a boat? Well, wade fishing is like laying out on a raft - you will burn if you don't have protection. A hat is a great idea, and polarized sunglasses are a must. Also, try to wear clothing that is in neutral colors like tans, light blues and light greens. Remember that if you can see the fish, they can see you. White and bright colors will spook away fish, and there goes your day of fishing! However, keep in mind that you don't want to camouflage yourself so well that a boat runs you over...
Wading in style
Here is something that you may want to try, especially if you get into wade fishing. Get a truck tire inner tube that will fit either a cooler inside it, or a large washtub. Now you have a place to keep your catch, tackle, lunch, and you now have a work station if you run into a problem with your gear. Safety wise, it could keep you alive if you for some reason forget to come back in before the tide does.
Fishing
Remember what I mentioned earlier, about using lures while wading out to your fishing spot? If you notice schools of Mullet in the flats, there is a great possibility that there could be Redfish in with these schools. There is also a high possibility of Snook and Seatrout. Always be on the lookout for baitfish breaking. You could find that the fish that you're after are still in the shallows, and have not moved into the holes and channels yet. However, you still need to be very quiet when approaching, and have a pole that can make very long casts. You would be surprised what you can hook into in only inches of water.
Once you reach the hole or channel that you wish to fish in, you can switch to bait if that's what you want to do. If you choose to fish with lures still, however, you will need to cast in a clocklike manner to cover a lot of area. Move along the edge of the hole or channel so that you can cover a large area in hopes of finding where the fish are. Then, try to work that area until the fish move. You will find that using a soft bait works very well - Bounce them off the bottom, or work them in a current. D.O.A. shrimp and Love's lures are two that I would recommend.
Something to think about
I am sure that you have heard stories about wade fishing - everything from sharks to sea monsters. When you're out there all alone, they all seem true. Something to think about though is that you are going into other creatures' homes - we are the outsiders. So always watch what you're doing, and have respect for these creatures.
Also be aware that you're going to be catching fish, and most likely putting these fish on a stringer attached to you. These fish will be splashing about for a bit, and most likely bleeding a little. I think you know where I am going with this. More than once I have had situations with sharks. When you're dangling fish in the water, you're asking for them to come up and check out your catch. I have had times when I have been pulled back a few feet, only to find just heads of my catch still on my stringer and a large fin circling me. Oh, and believe me - smacking a shark on the nose with your pole really doesn't work very well. So, remember the inner tube? It's really a great idea because you can put your catch into the cooler...

Randy Laukshtein is an avid Snook fisherman and co-creator of the Florida Fresh & Saltwater Fishing site. Check it out at: http://www.FLFreshAndSaltwaterFishing.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randy_Laukshtein

To Slip, Or Not To Slip

I know one of the first times I went fishing, my dad handed me a 12 foot cane pole with a weighted bobber (one of those red and white, straight wooden types with a lead weight attached to the top) and a night-crawler. I can still remember catching my first good size blue gill on that rig.
And I still have the picture to prove it.
Today, there are so many types of floats available, with at least three different ways to use each one. To keep from boring anyone, (hopefully) I will explain just a few of the best methods I know of.
Of course, the night-crawler is the oldest, most cost effective and often the best fish producing method known to anglers of all ages and experience. And how the worm is attached to the hook is one of the oldest arguments out there today.
Some say you have to ball the worm up while you thread it onto the hook. Some say you should wrap the worm around the hook while you bait it. Others like to hook their worm straight. Some anglers use minnows instead, which can also cause baiting arguments. (Through the lips, the dorsal or the tail)
Go figure.
I feel that it’s up to the angler to find out witch method works the best for their location or preference. Like I always say, “Go with what works.”
The night-crawler method is usually used with a stationary or “fixed” bobber. This is where the bobber is fixed to the line so it will not slide along the line. However, it’s not necessarily the only way to use a hook and bobber. In some situations, the “slip” bobber can be also used with a night-crawler on your hook.
It all depends on your situation at the time or how you feel.
With the slip bobber method, you can yo-yo your bait up and down, sometimes directly above your target area. Say in and out of weed-bed pockets or brush piles.
Which brings me to the next method, using a jig or rig with a bobber. This can be very useful in targeting those fish that want to stay at certain depths because of water temperature. Or it can be used to get a stubborn fish, out of hiding, that just will not take that live bait.
To use a jig or soft-bait rig with a bobber, you just tie on your choice of either and set up the bobber just like you would with a night-crawler or a minnow. There really is no difference except that. How you use this set up is a bit different though. Instead of just casting and waiting for your bobber to disappear, you work the lure the way you would without a float, except you use the float to keep the lure at a certain depth (fixed) or to jig the lure up and down (slip) in and out of weed-bed pockets.
Traditional methods of “fixing” a bobber to a line can be very simple or very involved. It depends on how you want the bobber to work or how much effort you want to put into it. It also depends on the type of bobber.
Some types require a bead or bobber stop of some kind to stop it at a certain position. These are called “slip” bobbers. They are designed to slide or “slip” along the line so that you can change the depth of your lure and sometimes there’s no need for a leader with this type.
The other and most widely used is the “fixed” bobber. This type is easier to incorporate. Generally all you have to do is attach the float to your line in the desired spot and be done with it. The bobber “holds” the line with either a spring or spring loaded wire hook and does not move. Then all you do is attach your preferred lure or bait and cast. When using a night-crawler, a “split shot” weight is attached just above the hook to give the bobber stability.
There are other methods of “fixing” a bobber to your line as well. With the round type, you can tie the line directly to the wire hook manufactured into the float and then tie a leader to the same hook. You can also attach a three way swivel to the float hook. This method keeps your line from getting twisted and can act as a counterbalance with weighted floats. You then tie your line to one eye and a leader to the other.
The purpose of using a weighted bobber is to cause the bobber to tip over at the slightest bite. This works really well when fishing for Crappie or Small-mouth bass since these two species of fish have a tendency to have a delicate bite, which can be hard to spot.
As I mentioned before, you can use a bobber with jigs or soft-bait rigs. Usually, fixed bobbers are used with jig-head lures and slip bobbers are used with soft-bait rigs. However, this is not etched in stone. By all means, experiment and “use what works” for you.
The fixed bobber method keeps your lure at a desired depth when fish won’t change to strike. This is a great method if you want to keep a jig-head off the bottom while you “swim” the lure slowly, which you cannot do without a bobber. The jig sinks to fast to be slow-rolled and drags across the bottom. In some cases, this is what you want and is basically what a jig-head lure is supposed to do. But if you want to “swim” your jig-head near the bottom, the fixed bobber is what you want.
The fixed method also allows your lure to “hover” above a weed bed where fish may be hiding to attack from below. This is where the weighted bobber comes into play. When a fish takes the lure and continues to swim upward, the bobber tilts to one side, indicating a bite. Cast this set-up past the weed bed and reel it in stopping about every 18 inches or so until you clear the bed or catch a fish.
If you want to be able to hop the lure straight up and down, the slip bobber is the way to go.
The slip bobber style allows you to raise and lower the lure, in and out of tight spots, which gives your creature bait or worm a more lifelike appearance. All this can be done from a discrete distance. Just cast and let the lure drop to the bottom, then reel in slowly or lift the rod tip until the bobber moves to where you want and let the lure drop again.
The strike will usually come on the downfall, especially if you’re dropping it into a spawning bed a big bass is protecting. The slip method also causes less hang-ups in most cases. The trick is to have a light touch, which will lift the lure almost straight up and out of trouble.
This method can be very useful around sunken trees or stumps, considering a bare root system can hold a number of fish. Here is where hopping the lure short distances is needed.
Both of these styles can be used on most all species of fish however, they are especially useful for drawing hidden bass and crappie out of cover. You never know this method might just win a tournament or gain you some nice bragging rights. Give it a try and as always, good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in Indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Tackle Size and Color Options

Terminal Tackle means those certain types of tackle that have a chance of being lost, irretrievable or doomed to the cold watery depths below the surface. Booey Hooey! Get over it, as I have once said, “If you are worried about losing your tackle, you should not be out fishing or stop buying those expensive lures and accessories to begin with.”
There are a few basic rules when it comes to the size of string, hooks, lures and other parts of your tackle. To begin with, chose a string size depending upon where you’re going to be lookin’ for those fish, the type of fish you’re lookin’ for and the size of your rod and reel you’re using. If you’re in fishing freshwater, you really needn’t go bigger than 12 pound test, 14 if you’re gonna fish in heavy cover.
The average size string used is 6 or 8 pound test. That’s on a six and a half foot rod with a 10 pound test reel. 10 pound string is a well diversely sized string. The 10 lb string can stand up to average fighting in the cover and still be light enough to remain hidden and give the lure a realistic movement. Lighter string is used more for smaller sized species of fish.
Leaders in general should be 10 or 12 pound test and usually heavier than your main line. They should also be and average length of 18 to 24 inches long and a color that will blend in or disappear. Longer leaders may be needed for trolling, rivers and shore fishing. Weighted leaders should be 14 to 20 pound monofilament, preferably green.
When it comes to the color of lures, all you really need to remember is light, dark and florescent. The colors you chose depend on the natural colors of the waters you’re fishin’ and the weather. Sometimes different colors than what the fish usually see, work better. The same can also be said about the shape of lures used.
Colors fade to gray the deeper they go. This is where florescent lures come into play. They retain more of their color than regular colored lures. Yellow (light) and Chartreuse (dark) are the most effective colors to use. I’ve found that lighter colors, generally are more visible during high light conditions and dark colors work better in low light conditions. The darker colors will stand out more in what little light there is.
The actual color of the lure you chose directly depends upon the natural colors of the types of food chain present in your fishing area at that time or all of the time. Go to the local tackle shop and listen or just ask the clerk about the colors of the frogs, crawdads, baby gills, shads, worms and lizards. Or look at the racks and what ever colors have the least amount in stock, will be the colors you will want to use in that area. Do some sight fishing to find out first hand, this is also a great way to gain experience and learn a thing or three about your fishing spot.
As for the angler, colors help us to see the lure, which is also important. Any abrupt disappearances are easily detected, light colors help us to keep track of the lure so we can watch for a strike and during high light conditions fish can see them better.
Hook size depends on the size of your bait. Obviously the bigger the worm or creature you use, the bigger the hook you will need. The average rig has a 1/0 offset hook and a six to ten inch plastic lure. This combination will draw out some good sized fish used with all the possible soft-bait rigging methods. As far as weightless and live bait rigs, the #6 bait-holder hook is the best choice. Large bass and smaller bluegill alike will get hooked on that one.
The size of barrel swivels depends on the angler and whether you are fishing for Bluefish in the Atlantic or Bluegill in the Mid-west. I prefer to use the smallest barrel possible, because it’s still strong enough to bring up a two foot catfish as well as a good four or five pound Large-mouth bass.
Structure and hang-ups can also help determine the size selection of your terminal tackle. You want something strong enough to handle a good fight in the weeds yet still break away easily when you get hung up in the weeds and brush. Speaking of getting hung-up, never pull back on the rod to free a snagged rig. This can either break your rod or cause the lure to come flying at you or your buddy. This can lead very serious injuries.
When trying to free a hung-up rig, pull on the line either down by the reel or out in front of the rod. The lure may still fly out, so yell contact, turn your head prepare for the attack. Or try to reach the hag-up and free the rig manually. This is the safest way to free a hang-up.
There is still so much to say about the size of terminal tackle, unfortunately there is only so much time one can spend explaining it in one article. So on that note, look for my next article and as always, happy thoughts and good fishin’ to ya.

Chris Curley lives in indianapolis, Indiana with his dogs Puranah and Princess and with his cat Sylvester.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Spring-time Fishing

Spring-time Fishing

In North America, Bass Fishing is the pursuit of the fish known primarily as Largemouth, Smallmouth and Rock Bass. But if you ask most American anglers, there looking for those Largemouth bulls (or pigs) depending on where you’re from.

After the winter solstice the weather begins to improve which means the prime fishing season is right around the corner. During Jan and Feb, the fish are still in winter patterns (establishing patterns at your favorite hole, is dependant upon going out and sight fishing during the late winter period).

If you get a series of 60-70 degree days during these months, fish will go shallow in a hurry, they will move into a pre-spawning pattern. Generally speaking, if you see fish around standing timber or docks during these warm periods, then your chance of catching fish in those types of areas around the lake or stream during spring are pretty much the same.

During these periods, when the water is at the higher levels, bass love to hang out between shallow brush and the edge of sharp drop-offs. Just remember, the water is cold, so slow your roll if you’re looking for a lunker.

During spring fishing, most top water poppers work well. Also, 3-4 inch soft-plastic minnows rigged Carolina or Texas style, which ever you prefer, except without a weight and with a barrel swivel on the end of the leader so your line doesn’t get all twisted up. You can skip this lure across the top of the water to get it up under tree limbs to really get in next to the trunks and then dog walk it back out through spawning nests. Be ready, because big bass are protecting they’re nests and they will attack, without prejudice.

These techniques work well on Lake Monroe, IN., which I happen to be lucky enough to have as my back yard. Finding the combination for your lake or fishin’ hole should be your number one priority during the early fishing season. Fish will tend to be attracted to the same lures in the fall that they were during spring, so get used to workin’ what works.

Sometimes you can get a spinner or a buzz bait to draw out larger bass waiting in ambush in the thickets (sunken brush, weeds and standing timber). Drag the lure along the outer-edge of these areas with a yo-yo retrieve or, jig ‘n pig it. The rising and dropping motion, along with the buzz and vibration of the bait is what triggers Largemouth to strike, even when there not hungry.

My favorite lure is the 2 inch, lipped, two treble-hook, balsa or plastic minnow with a reflective pattern or a realistic pattern. If you can get it to pop like a popper, it can be very deadly in the spring, especially on small ponds and channel coves along the edge of weed-beds and under overhanging trees. And if you’re real good, you might be able to skip it like the soft minnow.

As stated before, almost anything that pops the top of the water can be very useful throughout spring-time. The popping and splashing resembles a dying fish and the noises associated with other fish feeding on it. All of these actions attract fish of all sizes, makes them hungry and then they strike.

Pop the lure and let it sit until the rings die out and then do it again. Generally the strike will happen right before the next pop. Be sure to keep your eye on the lure, ‘cause when that fish hits, especially Largemouth, if you don’t set the hook soon enough (meaning, the second your lure disappears) the fish will spit it out. Panfish will usually get hooked as soon as they bite.

Spinners can also be used to slow-roll through deep channels to locate that lurkin’ lunker or to establish patterns in the deeper areas along the banks. Just work the bottom and see what happens. However, spinners usually don’t work to well during spring.
A temperature gauge is a handy tool to have year ‘round to establish retrieval speeds. Remember cold water tends to slow the fish down and warmer water will cause the fish to be more active. So practicing different speeds in different temperatures is a useful way to locate more fish.

Remember, when you’re on the lake, other people are out there too!
Help to take care of our lakes, rivers, and other waterways so that others may enjoy these areas for years to come. Follow your state and local laws regarding fishing and boating practices in your area.

Here’s some hints on fishing etiquette:

• Don't litter, take along a trash bag or other receptacle for collecting your trash.

• Make sure that you use the correct type of bait and fishing gear permitted in that area. There may also be limits on the number, size, and kind of fish that you can keep. Check with your destination ahead of time to see what the local regulations allow.

• If you use a boat or watercraft when fishing, check to see what kinds of watercraft are allowed and what the registration requirements are.

• Pay attention to local procedures and cautions for cleaning your watercraft after you leave the water so that you don't encourage the spread of non-native species to the next body of water that you visit.

• Don't fish in areas where it is not permitted. These areas have been declared "off limits" for a reason. It may not be a good idea to find out why.
Just remember, wherever you fish, make sure you have a good time and be safe.

Chris Curley Lives in Nashville, IN. with his dog Piranha. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Curley

Spring-time Fishing